Many designers have been focusing on ‘functionality’ lately, on making clothes that can easily be incorporated into a person’s preexisting closet. That, however, is not the objective of all ateliers. For the 2013 collections a number of designers presented opulent collections that created fantasy worlds and played with one’s imagination. The following are four collections that demonstrate that dreaming isn’t only for children.
Alexander McQueen Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear
Alexander McQueen was known for the strong imagination and the dramatic elements that each of his collections held within their seams. Since Sarah Burton took over in 2010 those elements haven’t been lost.
For fall 2013 she brought history into the 21st century by way of a collection that would have made women of Shakespeare’s time coo. Catholic angels, the Virgin Queen and popes throughout the ages were points of reference although the collection still felt modern in part due to metal waist-cinching belts and studded boots. Each model wore a pearl-encrusted cage over their head and the garments were all carefully decorated with thousands of pearls, delicate lace details, and a neck ruffle that could easily make modest dressing trendy again. The ensembles were of another world through and through, but are they truly ‘ready-to-wear’? Perhaps not but Mrs. Burton showed us, yet again, that her fantasies can be far more fun, and better looking, than our real world.
Valentino Spring 2013 Haute Couture
‘We really wanted to create a dream, something really fantastic, magic, fairy tale. Couture is a dream, and we love to dream. Why not?’ These are the words of Maria Grazia Chiuri who, along with her design partner Pierpaolo Piccioli, took over the collections at Valentino in 2008 when Mr. Valentino Garavani decided to retire. She was describing the idea behind the spring 2013 haute couture show of the Valentino house for which gardens, both formal as well as secret mazes and classical floral paintings, were the inspiration. The collection started with a dress decorated with raised red detailing that spoke to the wrought iron gates that guard the garden held within. By the end of it, though, there were no hints of anything protective; each dress seemed to have the weight of a cloud and was adorned with soft floral arrangements. The collection was filled with elegant dresses that spoke to the powers of diligent craftsmanship and acted as a stunning proclamation for what a woman can be. It was exactly what Ms. Chiuri wished for it to be: magic.
Givenchy Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear
Having grown up as the youngest of nine children and the only boy, Riccardo Tisci understands women. The collections he presents as the creative director of Givenchy speak to the layers that create a human. Balancing the hard with the soft, the rock ‘n’ roll with the romantic gypsy, he makes clothing that can speak to any woman’s sense of style and self. The ready-to-wear collection for fall 2013’s pairing of black with fierce floral prints and floor length skirts all brought about thoughts of grunge hippies. His Catholic past influences Tisci as well as the religious history of his home country, Italy, and the collection seemed to show models who had come from heaven but had the edge of a sinner. There was also air throughout the collection, emphasized by Bambi prints and sheer skirt infusions. And finally a new vision of heaven was shown, one that is affected by original sin yet still holds the grace of saints – a heaven that any girl would want to live in.
Rick Owens Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear
For his spring 2013 collection Rick Owens, the Paris-based designer who hails from Los Angeles originally, said he wanted to soften things up. Usually known for his use of black, leather and clothes that can have a general aggressive feel, this was a departure. He chose to title the collection ‘Island’ and the gladiator sandals and frizzy, winged hair hinted towards a retreat to a much simpler world than the frenzied one we inhabit. The colour scheme complimented that, spanning the spectrum of white to ash to glossy black. Breathy layers flowed over the body, each looking to be an extension of the model’s body. The collection acted as a pleasant reminder that our lives can always use a good dose of the ethereal.
Images: Style.com, Alexander McQueen, Vogue.it, Vogue.com.au, Glamour.com, Graziadaily.co.uk
Words: Emma Remington